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Good tips, i must admit though I've never had to use lubricant myself,maybe I apply more force without thinking. How are you cutting the pipe? Ive found the shear type cutters do tend to crush the pipe slightly so I use a rothenburger plasitcut set (like pipe slices for copper).

I have this LAP tester and yesterday I used it to wire up a single socket onto the other end of a radial. It reported "live earth reverse", which had me scratching my head for a bit, but the issue was actually missing neutral (had come loose from the neutral bar in the consumer unit). But at least it told me something was wrong, I possibly wouldn't have realised otherwise until I came to use the socket and had a problem.

Great video really helpful as a home owner to understand the basics of how the electrics are actually run. Keep up the great work.

I've gone through all this mistake thinking. I'm smart enough not to do them though and at least educate myself through videos. So no harm done yet. Huge thanks

A ring circuit cannot have over 30 A on any wire. The 2.5 mm² wires are not rated for 30 A.

What a tin hat

You need to reeducation on wagos!

That bosh laser pole is useless when you don't big houses, you gonna really raise that thing in a double story?

Awesome... Thank you very very much!

For a DIY’er push fit is great, but as a pro we aim for copper and use Hep where we need/have to. There’s a reason hep needs a special key, because it’s not meant to be messed about with by your average joe. In the industry speedfit is a bit of a joke because it’s known for leaks

Can the insulated tile backer board be placed on a stud wall which has got still the old plaster board on? It used to be tile on the plasterboard and it is in good condition.

Got to be mindfull of potential flaws in the design, that can fail, but aside from that they are pretty safe. For extra safety cross check with different devises

The danger of 13-amp socket testers is the neutral earth reversal that cannot be identified by the tester, particularly in a TNCS installation, you need to buy the type of tester that has a trip button and test each socket to ensure the RCD trips, alternately you need to check each Socket for the connections,

Have you ever had any problems with pushfits when you dont use the clips that go on the end? Theres a little notch that the tab slots into so you know what im talking about

WOW, I am a Diy'er & did not realise all this info about silicone sealant, I'll be watching out for it in future Thanks for taking time to put all this information in a video for us

First attachment is a must! Am considering one of these and your video was exactly what i was looking for.

Occasional DIY user here. Plastic piping is like Lego for plumbing - so easy! I have done pre-soldered and compression joints but plastic is definitely the way to go for me now.

Hi I have two blown Saxby 73787 ShieldECO IP65 spot lights, I have bought replacements from amazon, they have the whole unit and black part, can I just swap these out without turning off all the power to the flat, they are push connectors. Thanks you.

Watch your finger on those teeth 😀

Pros don’t use pushfit

add intonation to voice.... will get more views. YAWN zzzZzzz

I got my qualifications from Denmark. We NEVER understand your UK Methods 😂😂😂😂 WTH is ring circuit? Never allowed in DENMARK

John Guest, the Wago of plumbing

Great vid buddy. What is the difference with the JG pipes? BPEX BARRIER PIPE, PE-X PIPE. POLYBUTYLENE PIPE

Great vid! Didnt know about the lubricant issue, im going to buy some now. If you mix brands, they wont warranty it if you have issues. If you want to mix jg and hep fittings you need a but of copper pipe between the fittings 😂. Crazy and most people dont worry about it

Hep20 have released/are about to release a demountable version! Hoping to check it out soon myself

It looks naff to me!

Nice clear video, thank you. I'm planning a bathroom refurb, I've already got it back to masonry, but the walls are all out with random bricks sticking proud here and there. I was thinking to dot n dab Jackoboard and use mechanical fixing like you've done. I'm just not sure about putting the screws and plugs into the brick work, as its a solid external brick wall. I'm also wondering if D&D is enough, or if i should bed the board on a full bed of tile adhesive to take up the variation in the wall. Any thoughts are welcome, cheers.

As someone who works in industrial food factory maintenance, there's nothing tec7 can't fix or seal. it seals, adheres, can be used and cured underwater and is sanitary, always a go-to and if bought in bulk is reasonably cheap

Why is the meter owned by the electricity seller? That makes no sense as you have to change the meter if you change the seller? In Finland it is owned by the local electricity network and they give the data to the seller. That makes changing the seller easy.

You just prevented me from making a potentially dangerous mistake in my loft. Thank you!

Ahhh, seen many a people use these abroad when i go visit family in south east asia.

Even tho its got 32mm on it it won't fire them ive got one had it for a few years and still does not fire the 32mm

What did you use in the end to stick the foam boards to masonry walls? I've got similar breeze block wall but mine is pretty uneven and confused about the best approach for 1200 x 600 mm boards. Excellent channel btw!

its the exact way we do it in Germany.... because we dont have ring wiring... works fine with our 16A fuses! for over 100 years!

It is all about being qualified! Not qualified you are not competent got it. You are a long time dead!. Retired now was a niceic QS.

Automatic vent is bad , if you are away for holiday and incase your automatic vent is faulty, you might see your house as swimming pool when you arrive 😊

Great video, but most of it basic logic thought isn't it..., but even a lot of the pro's don't seem to be able to do so (or they just don't care...). In my house the so-called pro's used tape to 'protect' the bare live wires in light point boxes. I always use Wago instead.

I’m sure many reading this come will already know this, but they are called Type D plugs. I believe they were used in the UK before they switched over to the current standard, called Type G. Since India was under the British Raj at the time, they were used in India too and they continue to be used in India. In India they’re colloquially called 6-Amp plugs by electricians and the most commonly used sockets in houses. Indian appliances also come with Type C plugs, which are just 2-prongs and for devices which normally need no more than 2 (or 3) Aof current. You can shove in a Type C plug into a Type D sockets, but the government is now pushing to completely do away with the Type C plugs. The other type of plug used in India is Type M. It is also a 3-round pin type plug and looks exactly like the Type D, but it’s bigger. In India is referred to as a 16-Amp plug, because it’s on circuits used for high power devices like water heaters, or refrigerators, and are on 16A circuits. Normally, while there is a single fuse on one 6A circuit, there are separate fuses on the each 16A sockets (not plugs). At 230V supply, a 6A outlet can power up to 1380W, while the 16A outlet can draw up to 3680W, both of which are sufficient for the kind of appliances you use on those sockets.

I’m sure many reading this come will already know this, but they are called Type D plugs. I believe they were used in the UK before they switched over to the current standard, called Type G. Since India was under the British Raj at the time, they were used in India too and they continue to be used in India. In India they’re colloquially called 6-Amp plugs by electricians and the most commonly used sockets in houses. Indian appliances also come with Type C plugs, which are just 2-prongs and for devices which normally need no more than 2 (or 3) Aof current. You can shove in a Type C plug into a Type D sockets, but the government is now pushing to completely do away with the Type C plugs. The other type of plug used in India is Type M. It is also a 3-round pin type plug and looks exactly like the Type D, but it’s bigger. In India is referred to as a 16-Amp plug, because it’s on circuits used for high power devices like water heaters, or refrigerators, and are on 16A circuits. Normally, while there is a single fuse on one 6A circuit, there are separate fuses on the each 16A sockets (not plugs).

Really helpful video. I'm just about to try Wago for the first time for some loft lights, having seen them recommended. I was a bit misled by your thumbnail though as it made it look like the Wago was a bad option, hence why I clicked to see why. I have seen some shocking (excuse pun) wiring in houses I've lived in. 70's and 80's builds seemingly had barely any regs so it seemed. I had mains wiring running diagonally behind my kitchen wall and a spaghetti junction of cables above my light fittings. These Wago's look good and am looking forward to trying them out! Thanks

Do you get any of the brass fittings with the iBox, or do you need to get those based on the requirements?

Not very good for fixing mdf architraves to mdf casings, or hardwood, paslode is better, but they both break down a lot if using everyday

I have limited experience myself, but it amazes me that anyone making these connections think they have any business working with electricity.

Just confirming - when you said you were going to close the lockshield on the drain off to allow water through the radiator…did you mean open it?

Great explanation. I have some spare lamps with plugs which I wanted to use in the loft utilising the exposed lighting cable up there. I originally thought about just connecting the lamp wires to the lighting circuit via a ceiling rose, but then though there's no fuse to protect them (am I right?). Instead, I'll create a spur off the circuit with a junction box to a round-pin socket and replace the plugs on the lamps with round pins. That should offer my lamps some protection and stop anyone in future plugging any appliance into the lighting circuit.

It's not the tool it's the user

Copper is king

I can't find a solution for my issue. I'm replacing my old smoke detectors, and they were wired. Can I just cut the ends, leaving no exposed copper, heat shrink sleeves on each, and push them back inside the ceiling? Would that be safe enough? PS the wires are live.

Wago, ok for lights (bulbs) and low currents. Wago is not good for high current as they connect only by small pressure and on the tangent of the wire, so small contact area. I faced so many problems with wago but never with screw terminal when well used. It is always how you use them it makes a big difference. Wago is appreciated because it is fast and simple to connect wires.